The A-Z Of what's in our cosmetics, B - D

Article by BR Merilyn

Botox

 What is BOTOX®?

The injection contains a muscle relaxant obtained from the bacterium Clostridium botulinum.

What is in BOTOX®?

 Each vial contains 100 units (U) of Clostridium botulinum toxin type A-haemagglutin complex as the active ingredient. It also contains human albumin (the most abundant protein in human blood plasma, produced in the liver)and sodium chloride (salt).

What does it look like?

The injection is supplied as a sterile white vacuum-dried powder in a clear glass vial. It is diluted before

How does the BOTOX® injection work?

 BOTOX® works by temporarily relaxing overactive or spastic (contracting) muscles.  It can also block signals to the sweat glands thus reducing excessive sweating and also block the release of chemicals in the brain associated with the cause of pain. It has also been used to assist with incontinence.

Best before dates

 Many cosmetics and skincare products do not have best before dates printed on them unless they are made fresh. For our guide to when it’s best to discard your beauty products and buy new, click here.

Bleach

Tooth-whitening options use peroxide-based bleaching agents. At-home systems can contain from 3% to 20% peroxide (carbamide or hydrogen peroxides). In-office systems can contain from 15% to 43% peroxide. 

Generally, the longer you keep a stronger solution on your teeth, the whiter your teeth become. However, the higher the percentage of peroxide in the whitening solution, the shorter it should be applied to the teeth.  Keeping the gel on longer will dehydrate the tooth and increase tooth sensitivity.

Bleaching will not whiten porcelain crowns or composite tooth-coloured bondings.

Claims

Around 93% of cosmetic products sold in New Zealand are imported. These are manufactured to world best practice and accepted Good Manufacturing Practice standards in Europe, USA, Canada or Australia or in other markets under licence and to those same standards by global manufacturing facilities.

Ceremides

A type of fat molecule used as an emollient in skin and hair care products. Fats which help to give a shine to the skin and hair.

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide DEA is a surfactant which is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as shampoos, bath products and lotions.

Cocamide DEA is safe to use in cosmetic products. All cosmetic ingredients must be safe to use, according to strict European cosmetic safety laws. The safety of cocamide DEA has not been questioned by the European Commission or its independent expert advisory committee, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).

Cocamidoprypyl betaine

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a mild surfactant which is used in cosmetic cleaning products such as shampoos and skin cleansers.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is safe for use in cosmetic products. All cosmetic ingredients must be safe to use, according to strict European cosmetic safety laws. The safety of cocamidopropyl betaine has not been questioned by the European Commission or its independent expert advisory committee, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).

Collagen

Might be thought of as a strong network of fibres that give skin its underlying structure and ensures the skin stays in place! A protein in the skin which provides structure; in effect, the scaffolding. Helps to make the skin feel smoother.

Cosmeceutical

The term “Cosmeceutical” is not an official, legal category of product.

However “cosmeceutical” is a marketing term often used within the industry and in the press to describe cosmetic products that are intended to have actions and effects that go beyond the purely decorative, e.g. ‘performance’ cosmetics.

A product is either a cosmetic or a medicine and cannot be both at the same time. There are very clear legal definitions for a cosmetic and for a medicine – and that’s it, there is no ‘third’ category.

The manufacture of cosmetic products is highly regulated, and the EU rules clearly state the definition of a cosmetic (and medicines legislation defines what a medicine is).

As with many areas of life, there is a ‘borderline’ between cosmetics and medicines. However, a company marketing a product near the borderline between these two categories has to decide whether the product is one or the other and then comply with the appropriate legislation.

The claims made for a cosmetic product are legislated for by at least three means:

• In the UK there is the Trades Descriptions Act covering all descriptions made regarding a product or its attributes. This Act does not allow it to be implied, directly or indirectly, that a product has characteristics that it does not have;
• In NZ, specific NZ cosmetics legislation requires that claims made on the pack must be capable of substantiation;
• There is the control of print and broadcast advertising administered by the Advertising Standards Authority of NZ.

Dermatologically tested

There is no legal definition of the term "Dermatologically tested" when applied to a cosmetic product. In general terms "Dermatologically tested" means tested on the skin. A variety of techniques are available for skin compatibility. The involvement of a doctor or dermatologist is not essential, although the protocols used may have been reviewed by a medically qualified person.

DHA (dihydroxyacetone)

DHA (dihydroxyacetone)- pronounced dye-hi-droxy-a-ce-tone, is the most commonly used self tan ingredient.

It works by chemically reacting with the amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) in the dead layer of the skin’s surface and causes a colour change, which results in the ‘tan’ effect. Or in simpler terms reacting with the top layer of your skin to colour it. The colour you go when applying a self tan will depend on the way you naturally tan.

DHA has recently been reviewed by the European Commission’s independent expert scientific committee (the SCCS), which advises the Commission on scientific matters and the safety of cosmetic ingredients. The SCCS looked at data to support the use of DHA in cosmetic formulations, and also specifically its use in spray cabins, and confirmed the safe use of DHA in cosmetic products.

Occasionally media reports, originating in the US, circulate which question the safety of DHA when used in cosmetic products, and in particular in spray tans. Some even wrongly suggest a link between DHA and cancer. There are no links between the use of DHA and cancer.

It is important to remember though that self-tanning products don’t normally contain any sunscreens – so do not forget to also use sun protection when going out in the sun.

*We would like to thank the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Assn of the Uk (sister body to the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Assn of NZ) for their assistance with writing this article. www.thefactsabout.co.uk